Our Construction Methods
Goodyear welted construction
Hallmark of traditional shoe craftsmanship
This method involves stitching a leather welt to the upper and a rib to the insole, creating a cavity that is filled with cork or cushioning material. The outsole is then both stitched and cemented to the welt, offering superior strength, flexibility, and the ability to replace the sole multiple times.
Invented in 1869
by Charles Goodyear Jr., the Goodyear welted method revolutionised footwear manufacturing. The process was perfected over time, with a machine designed by August Destouy and later improved by Daniel Mills. This method became the standard for high-quality shoes, prized for its durability and comfort.
Why Choose Goodyear Welted Shoes by Samuel Windsor?
- Timeless Craftsmanship: Built to last, with the option to resole for years of use.
- Comfort & Durability: The cork filling molds to the foot, offering outstanding comfort and insulation.
- Resoleable: Designed for longevity, so you can extend the life of your shoes with a simple sole replacement.
Most of our premium footwear uses Goodyear welted construction, a symbol of exceptional quality and craftsmanship.
Blake Stitch Construction
Sleek & flexible design
Blake stitch construction involves sewing the upper directly to the insole and outsole using a single, continuous thread. This technique creates a sleek and flexible design that’s ideal for more formal shoes. It provides a close-fitting, lightweight shoe that’s perfect for those who want a streamlined, elegant look.
Invented in the 19th-century
The Blake stitch method is named after its inventor, Lazarus Blake, a 19th-century shoemaker. It was developed as a faster, more efficient way to produce shoes compared to the Goodyear welt. While it doesn't offer the same durability as Goodyear welted construction, it provides a stylish, flexible alternative.
Why Choose Blake Stitch Construction?
- Sleek & Refined: Ideal for formal shoes that require a lighter, more flexible construction.
- Lightweight Comfort: Blake stitch shoes are known for their comfort and easy wear.
- Durability: A strong, secure construction that offers longevity in a streamlined design.
Blake stitch construction provides a perfect balance of style and flexibility, ideal for formal occasions.
Cemented Construction
Lightweight & modern
Cemented construction involves using high-quality adhesives to bond the upper, insole, and outsole together, without the need for stitching. This method allows for a lightweight shoe with a clean, modern aesthetic. It is an efficient and reliable construction method used in many casual and contemporary footwear styles.
Why Choose Cemented Construction by Samuel Windsor?
- Modern & Sleek: Ideal for casual footwear with a clean, minimalist look.
- Lightweight & Flexible: Cemented construction offers easy wearability and comfort all day long.
- Durable Bonding: The high-performance adhesives ensure long-lasting durability without the need for stitching.
Cemented construction is perfect for contemporary shoes that prioritise lightness and comfort, while maintaining durability.
Stitched Down Construction
Traditional & Rugged
Stitched down construction is a traditional, rugged method where the upper is stitched directly to the midsole. The outsole is then attached with adhesives. This method is known for its distinctive style, as the uppers fold outward to create a unique look. It’s a durable choice for casual footwear, especially those designed for outdoor use.
Why Choose Stitched Down Construction?
- Durability: Ideal for outdoor or casual shoes that need to withstand heavy use.
- Distinctive Style: The outward-folded upper gives these shoes a signature look that stands out.
- Comfort: The construction allows for more flexibility and comfort, especially during prolonged wear.
Stitched down construction offers exceptional durability and a timeless style, ideal for rugged everyday wear.
Our Commitment to Quality
At Samuel Windsor, we source our leathers exclusively from Leather Working Group (LWG) certified tanneries, ensuring that every pair of shoes is made with the highest environmental and ethical standards. Whether you’re choosing a Goodyear welted masterpiece or a sleek cemented shoe, you can trust that every detail has been carefully crafted for comfort, durability, and style.